Do you know the value of a good wave? According to economists from The University of Sydney, great surf breaks contribute some $50 billion to global economic activity each year.
In 2017, these Aussie researchers declared Nosara, Costa Rica, as the fasting-growing surf break site in the world. And on a recent trip to the district on Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula, I could easily see why.
Nosara is quickly becoming a legendary surf destination; Playa Guiones, set along a 3-mile stretch of uncrowded beach, offers some of the best surfing in the world. Playa Pelada, meanwhile, which is located by Bar Olga’s, is where waves are best from mid- to high-tide. Only seasoned pros should consider Playa Nosara and its challenging waves.
Bodhi Tree Yoga Resort blends in with its surroundings.
Credit: 2022 Bodhi Tree Yoga ResortWhether you’re a surf pro or a regular beach bum, Nosara exudes an easygoing atmosphere any adventurer can enjoy. Its developing landscape is filled with sun, sand, choice waves, wildlife-spotting opportunities and good food — everything discerning travelers expect from a Costa Rican holiday.
Here’s what to know about the growing surf village.
How to Get to Nosara, Costa Rica
Although Juan Santamaria International Airport (SJO) in San Jose receives the lion’s share of international visitors, Nosara is closest to quiet Liberia International Airport (LIR). Routes will likely stopover in Dallas and Miami, but there are some direct flights out of Los Angeles (LAX) with JetBlue and Alaska Airlines. From LIR, it's a three-hour drive south to Nosara. Nosara’s small airport also hosts flights from both SJO and LIR through Sansa Air.
My experience of the Guanacaste Province surf town began with an airport pickup at LIR from Nosara Transfers. Visitors should know that the quality of roads to Nosara range from good to “fasten your seatbelt” — the final 40 minutes to Nosara will be a bumpy journey. (This may be why many car renters discover that advertised prices often do not include necessary insurance.)
What to Do in Nosara
Costa Rica is an outdoor playground teeming with nature, and Nosara is no exception. Travelers will find a range of activities from which to choose, including ATV rides, canopy tours, spas, hiking, horseback riding, yoga and surfing.
Any itinerary should be sure to include time for local wildlife viewing: The Sibu Wildlife Sanctuary is dedicated to rehabbing Costa Rica’s loudest critter, the howler monkey. The sanctuary is set within a 50-acre jungle preserve and gives visitors the opportunity to learn about local fauna and Sibu’s conservation efforts. Tours are held every Tuesday and Thursday at 10 a.m. ($60 per person), and private groups for six or more people can be arranged.
One of the most unique and spectacular nature experiences in Nosara is at Ostional Wildlife Reserve, where tens of thousands of olive ridley sea turtles come to nest. More threatened turtle species, such as the leatherback, are preserved in on-site hatcheries. The best bet to see turtles laying eggs is to take a 20-minute, $20 tuktuk ride pre-dawn at the southern ranger station.
When you return from the day’s adventure, do like the locals do: Get to the beach and watch the sunset. Expect to see loads of Nosara residents set up on blankets with a few friends and a bottle of wine to close out another sunny day.
Where to Eat
An American expat community and beachcomber vibe make for a simple but delightful culinary scene in Nosara. Visitors can expect traditional American breakfast served anytime, along with fare such as pizza, smoothies, baked goods and traditional Costa Rican cuisine. Combine a sunset evening and thin-crust pizza with a reservation at La Luna for shoreside dining.
I found the best restaurant in Nosara to be Coyol, which offers indoor and outdoor dining (although outdoors during sunset is the way to go) and is reached via a spine-tingling drive up a winding mountain road. The reservation-only eatery hosts an extensive drink menu, and the tomahawk steak, spare ribs and eggplant are all exceptional.
Also worth noting is the Tuesday farmers’ market, which highlights fresh fruits and veggies, local crafts and culture, and artisanal chocolate.
Where to Stay in Nosara
Nosara’s rustic appeal means limited brand-name accommodations. Fortunately, there are several wonderful and well-established properties in the area. Bodhi Tree Yoga Resort — where guests are greeted up a long staircase by an enormous statue of Ganesh, the elephant-headed Hindu god — keeps an environmentally friendly focus by blending seamlessly into its natural jungle setting.
The 53-room property offers a spa, a gym, Spanish language immersion, nature-based experiences and community yoga classes that are open to guests and non-guests alike. The resort provides 15% travel advisor commission, except for high season and holidays.
There’s also Lagarta Lodge, which has received Five-Leaf classification for its sustainability. Its restaurant, Chirriboca, has the best view of the Pacific Ocean in Nosara, and crafts Costa Rican classics, as well as ample international choices.
Next door, the hotel-owned Reserva Biologica nature reserve educates guests on Nosara’s natural world.
Pro tip: Savvy advisors can get questions answered by locals through the “Nosara Recommends” Facebook group.
