Review: Hurtigruten's Svalbard Line Onboard MS Trollfjord

In today’s travel landscape, companies strive to be known as “authentic” to the destinations they visit and often boast about their connections to local communities. But it would be hard to find a company that is more intrinsically a part of a destination than Hurtigruten is in Norway.

For 131 years, the cruise line has been sailing up and down the Norwegian coast, bringing passengers, as well as cargo and mail, to towns of all sizes. The Original Coastal Express service continues to this day, but it has been enhanced with a couple of Signature Voyages, as well. And, on a recent abbreviated version of the The Svalbard Line (an eight- or 15-day southbound or northbound summer itinerary) onboard the line’s MS Trollfjord, I was able to experience the heart of Norway.

Into the Far North

The southbound eight-day Svalbard Line itinerary travels from Longyearbyen, on the far-northern island of Svalbard, to Bergen. This route brings visitors high into the Arctic Circle, to the northernmost settlements in the world.

With a population of 1,753, there are more polar bears in the region than residents of the village of Longyearbyen. This fact was made clear on our first excursion to Camp Barentz, where guests had to be escorted by a rifle-toting local just in case a bear dropped in for dinner. In fact, houses in Longyearbyen are required to keep their doors unlocked in case someone has to duck inside to get away from a bear.

At Camp Barentz, in a small cabin on the tundra, our group enjoyed a homemade meal of reindeer bidos (stew), while learning about the history of the area and the habits of polar bears.

For 131 years, the cruise line has been sailing up and down the Norwegian coast, bringing passengers, as well as cargo and mail, to towns of all sizes.

After two days exploring Longyearbyen — including a motorized catamaran excursion to see nearby glaciers and fjords — we boarded the MS Trollfjord and headed even farther north, to Ny-Alesund. Just 745 miles from the North Pole, this village is the northernmost settlement in the world. The former mining operation is now inhabited by 100 or so scientists representing 20 glaciology and climate institutes from more than 10 countries.

Hurtigruten brings supplies to the community, and its passengers have the opportunity to explore the town. Tell clients to be sure to check out the local museum to get a better understanding of the history of the village, along with the general store, where visitors can mail a postcard from the top of the world.

There are signs all over Ny-Alesund warning people to be on the lookout for polar bears, a fact that was brought home when, from the ship, we spotted a young bear on the shoreline just outside of town.

From Ny-Alesund, we sailed south — taking in Norway’s incredible coastal scenery — to Senja, ranked by CNN as one of the top 10 most beautiful islands in the world. From Senja, it was on to Stokmarknes and Lofoten, sailing through an archipelago that’s known for its beauty. Standing on deck as the MS Trollfjord navigated the emerald-green waters and narrow passages of the fjords — tall granite cliffs towering on both sides — is a travel memory I will not soon forget.

One of the benefits of a Hurtigruten cruise in Norway is the opportunity for a range of excursions. In addition to popular e-bike tours, the line offers many water-based activities in the coastal wilderness, where guests can spot wildlife, such as whales and puffins, and get up close to massive glaciers. I also took two RIB-boat excursions, one of which combined a thrilling, high-speed ocean ride with an unforgettable display of about 50 sea eagles diving from rocks into the water around us.

Onboard Comfort

As great as the onshore activities were, the onboard hospitality was top notch, as well.

There are a range of accommodations onboard MS Trollfjord, but I recommend booking one of the 10 upper-deck Grand Suites. Not only are they massive at more than 3,500 square feet, but they come with amenities such as binoculars, a parka, a knit hat and a sweater, all of which are complimentary and can be taken home after the cruise.

The Grand Suites are classically designed, with lots of wood touches, giving them the feel of an old-school study. My suite featured a sitting area with a sofa, another sitting area in front of large bay windows, a walk-in closet and a bathroom with a separate shower and bath.

Hurtigruten calls the cuisine on its ships “Norway’s Coastal Kitchen,” and it is based on “the flora and fauna that flourishes beneath the ship and along the coast.” The company is dedicated to sustainability and emphasizes that sourcing food locally is not just about fresh, farm-and-fjord-to-table flavors, but also about achieving the lowest footprint possible and minimizing food waste.

My favorite restaurant on MS Trollfjord was Rost, the fine-dining venue. Dishes here include inventive takes on local delicacies, such as salmon or reindeer, and incorporate ingredients such as seaweed, kelp, Arctic pearls and more. Resident sommeliers help pair each dish with the perfect wine. One of my favorite offerings in Rost was its Bubbles of the Sea program, featuring Havets Bobler, a bottle of sparkling wine that was chilled and aged at the bottom of the Norwegian Sea.

The other a la carte restaurant is Brasserie Arran, named after the Indigenous Sami term for the fire at the hearth. The casual restaurant’s use of dark wood, leather and rough-hewn stone creates a warm and rustic feel that reflects the hearty comfort food on the menu.

The third onboard restaurant is Flora, the ship’s buffet, while the 1893 Bar is the main lounge onboard, also serving as an observation deck and general hangout. There’s also a library, a game room and a sauna and fitness room onboard, as well as a self-service laundry. In the lecture hall, the knowledgeable Coastal Experience Team gives daily talks about local history and wildlife.

The company’s history with the region is inherent in every aspect of a Hurtigruten cruise. From the onboard experience to the onshore excursions, there is no doubt that Hurtigruten is the most authentic way to experience coastal Norway. And that’s no surprise — after all, they have over a century of practice.