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Chelsee Lowe // (c) 2014 Chelsee Lowe
Chelsee LoweSenior Editor

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A Local's Guide to Lake Como, Italy

May 14, 2025
Culinary  Travel Guide  Western Europe  Italy  
A Local's Guide to Lake Como, Italy
Lake Como is surrounded by historic villas.
Credit: 2025 janoka82/stock.adobe.com

More than a dozen picturesque towns sit on the shores of Lake Como, and stunning villas and gardens with incredible views draw crowds during the peak summer season. Of course, no visit here is complete without spending some time on the water, which is where Paolo Polledri of Tre Nodi Sailing comes in.

Polledri, now 61, has worked and played on the lake since he was 14 years old. Nearly all his customers are American, he says, and more of them arrive every year. Polledri is thankful for the beauty of his home, and even for George Clooney, who put Lake Como on the metaphorical map after buying a villa here in the early aughts.

Tre Nodi Sailing debuted 15 years ago; last year, Polledri added a small yacht to his fleet, and brought his wife, Manuela Formenti, into the company to run the business side of his enterprise. They regularly work with U.S. travel advisors, booking lake tours and even onboard candlelit dinners that highlight local cuisine.

When clients aren’t on deck, here’s what else he recommends they see and do near his beloved Lake Como.

Paolo Polledri, owner of Tre Nodi Sailing
Paolo Polledri, owner of Tre Nodi Sailing
Credit: 2025 Tre Nodi Sailing

The historical villas around Lake Como represent: an ancient system of government. We once had nobles, a duke and a king, and every noble wanted to build a villa on the lake to represent the family. A favorite is Villa Melzi in Bellagio. The interior of the villa isn’t open, but people can go around the gardens. One mile away is Villa Carlotta; it’s beautiful, and you can visit inside. And if someone tells me they only have one day in Lake Como, I say go to Villa Balbianello. The first owner was a cardinal, and it was built in the late 1700s to represent the Vatican on the lake. The last owner left it to the government, and insisted the public be able to see it.

RELATED: A Travel Guide to Italy's Puglia Region

To dine like a local: try dishes made with small lake fish, such as agone, lavarello and alborella. Fishermen catch agone, salt it, then eat it all year. Lavarello, which you catch only with a net and at night, is often grilled. Rice with lavarello is a very special dish here.

Tre Nodi Sailing offers boat tours on the lake.
Tre Nodi Sailing offers boat tours on the lake.
Credit: 2025 Tre Nodi Sailing

For a must-try meal, visit: Trattoria Baita Belvedere. Located on the top of the hill above Bellagio, it offers simple and authentic cuisine and breath-taking views of the lake. Another option is Ristorante Mella; they cook lake fish caught by fishermen from the village of San Giovanni, and also offer wonderful lake views.

RELATED: 5 Hidden Gems in Northern Italy

Under-the-radar hotels include: Hotel Aurora Lezzeno and Il Grifo. These are small hotels, but full of character. Aurora is in front of Villa del Balbianello. Il Grifo has a family restaurant that makes local specialties with lake fish.

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The ideal time to spend at Lake Como is: three days, which you can fill with gardens and villa visits. Our busy season begins in April and finishes in October. It is very warm mid-June through July, but it is less crowded. August is hot, and many locals are away on vacation. September is beautiful. In November, December and January, it’s cold, and many hotels and restaurants are closed.

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